Hidden treasures on display for the first time at the Walker

5 February 2018 by Nicola Scott

Slaves of Fashion: New Works by The Singh Twins has just opened at the Walker Art Gallery, and thanks to this unique collaboration between National Museums Liverpool and The Singh Twins, you can see some star objects that have never been on display before!

It is not new for artists to take inspiration from museum collections, but what is different is the extent of The Singh Twins’ research. They have viewed hundreds of objects, which have contributed to many ideas for their artworks.

We began in 2014 when I planned a visit to our stores with the artists. The exhibition tells stories from the history of Indian textiles, so I was looking for items made in India or inspired by Indian design. I was thrilled to discover exquisite hand-embroidered pieces and stunning, woven shawls – I realised these had never before been seen by the public. The Singh Twins went on to work with colleagues in other departments too. The objects they discovered have informed some of the main themes for their artworks, and you can see many referenced within the actual artworks themselves! I was delighted to put some of these on display for the first time in Slaves of Fashion.

A selection of our textiles, jewellery and books on display for the first time

Shawl or ‘Phulkari’, India 19th century

Shawl or ‘Phulkari’, India 19th century

Made of hand-spun cotton and embroidered with silk thread, women in Punjabi villages made stunning phulkari shawls like this by hand for their dowry. The word ‘phulkari’ means ‘flower work’ and originally described the embroidery technique of the Punjab in northern India.

Jewellery made of gold, diamonds and coloured stones, Spain, 17th century

Jewellery made of gold, diamonds and coloured stones, Spain, 17 th century

This was given to our collections in 1867 by goldsmith Joseph Mayer, whose shop was in Lord Street, Liverpool. Like The Singh Twins, Mayer may have been inspired in his own work by these brooches.

Shawl of wool and silk, made in Edinburgh, 1830-1835

Shawl of wool and silk, made in Edinburgh, 1830-1835

This British-made shawl is inspired by Indian ones. Shawls like this were popular in Britain in the 1830s and were given to brides as a wedding gift.

‘Iris’ from Georg Dionysius Ehret’s ‘Deliciae Botanicae’, 1732

‘Iris’ from Georg Dionysius Ehret’s ‘Deliciae Botanicae’, 1732

This is a rare book containing over 300 exquisite, water-colour paintings of flowers. Many have never been displayed, including the iris. The iris is the national flower of France, seen in The Singh Twins’ artwork Kashmiri Shawls.

Muslin stole, northern India, around 1815

Muslin stole, northern India, around 1815

This muslin stole with a ‘tree-of-life’ design is a fine example of Indian embroidery known as chikan work, probably made in Lucknow, northern India in about 1815. The stylised flowering tree is a common motif in Indian fabric design. It was made for export and worn by a series of British women until 1972, when it was given to the museum. The stole shows us just why delicate muslins like this were desired by fashionable women in this country. As it had been in storage for many years, we had to do a lot of work to make it ready for display. It actually had the peg marks on it where the last owner had hung it on the line!

The artworks in Slaves of Fashion: New Works by The Singh Twins tell of the beauty and renown of Indian fabrics.  They also reveal a darker side to the trade in textiles with the west. This is a thought-provoking exhibition, which contrasts the beauty of our collections with the history of empire and the legacies of transatlantic slavery. It is not to be missed.

  1. Jackie says:

    Would love a book based on the exhibition. There was so much to see and think about.

  2. Mary Heeley says:

    Exceptional! I would like a copy of the poem used in the film. Please can you tell me if it is in print anywhere.

    • Nicola Scott, says:

      Glad you have enjoyed the exhibition and The Singh Twins’ poem. The poem has not been published to date.

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